Hiking (mountain trail, in places narrow and exposed)
Alpine route (equipped or very exposed section, snow field, blocks)
R15
Dom v Tamarju » Thörl-Maglern
|
6h10 |
23.7 km
|
659 m
|
1123 m
Start in the Planica glacial valley and go through the forests below the impressive rocky peaks to the Planica ski jumps. Go past the ski slopes and through Podkoren, then climb up to Korensko sedlo, which is already part of the Karawanken range. Then climb to the Seltschacher Alm pasture and you will arrive at the Dreiländereck (“three-country-corner”) at the Ofen mountain (1,509m), where Slovenia, Italy and Austria meet.
From the hut at Tamar, go north past the chapel. At the end of the clearing, turn left and walk along the edge of the clearing then climb over the wooden fence. There is a broad forest road running north through the Planica valley. Follow the road downhill and keep to the left at the junctions. After 20 minutes, you will come to a clearing which opens up a spectacular view of the valley below. The road begins to descend steeply here. Continue past the many junctions and follow the widest road, which eventually turns northeast towards a mountain stream. To the left can be seen the huge ski jump at Planica. Cross the mountain stream to reach the road and pass the ski jumps to get to the road junction. 25 minutes. Walk in the direction of Dom na Planici and turn left just before reaching it. Follow the track to the clearing under the ski jump. Follow the track on the other side of the clearing, where it is crossed by a footpath, across a dry river bed and through a small wood to a larger clearing, then turn east at the junction on the right side of the clearing. Cross the dry river bed again to a reach an improved dirt track and follow it to the tarmac road leading to Podkoren. Keep to the right of the road and turn left after the last ski jump, and cross the road to reach the main road in Podkoren. (850 m). 35 minutes. Cross the main road and climb up the steep village road. Cross the square to the bridge crossing the stream. Turn left onto the macadam road just before reaching the bridge. Pass the houses and climb over a wooden fence onto a clearing. After climbing over the fence, follow the dirt track along the right edge of the clearing. The track leads into a wood and begins ascending. After a 15-minute climb you will reach a wooden fence. Follow the footpath leading into the woods. There is a spacious clearing at the transmission line. Climb up the clearing to the track in the middle. Turn right and walk to the end of the clearing, then through a small wood to the next clearing. On the opposite bank is a road at the border crossing. Follow the road to the Korensko sedlo border crossing (1,073 m). 50 minutes. Source: Mihelič, Tine; (1998). Julijske Alpe. Planinski vodnik. Ljubljana: Planinska zveza Slovenije. Atlas Slovenije. (1996). 3. izpopolnjena in razširjena izdaja. Ljubljana: Mladinska knjiga in Geodetski zavod Slovenije (GZS). Julijske Alpe - vzhodni del. (2003). 1:50.000. GZS. Ljubljana: PZS. Gorenjska. (1998). Izletniška karta. 1:50.000. Ljubljana: GZS. (Peter Šilak) After crossing the Slovenian-Austrian border at the Wurzen Pass, keep to the left and follow the trail numbered 603. At the start, the trail leads in narrow bends through the wood up to the Seltschacher Alm meadow. A restaurant is located at the mountain station of the chair lift. A few minutes below the meadow you will reach the Dreiländereck Hut, a privately run refuge that is open during the summer and winter season. From the refuge, the trail again leads uphill, following the border and bringing you to the 1,508 metre-high Ofen elevation (Dreiländereck, Peč, Monte Forno). This is the point at which the countries Austria, Italy and Slovenia meet. Head downward along trail number 603 towards the West. In the high meadow area, the trail is in parts difficult to distinguish, and careful attention should therefore be paid to the markings. After approx. 1h 30min from the Dreiländereck Hut, you will arrive at a gravel road, which must be followed on the left-hand side for around 20min. Afterwards, take the turnoff to Thörl-Maglern. After crossing the Gailitz river and completing a short climb, turn right just before the church. A little later, you will reach the Thörl-Maglern railway station, which is however no longer in operation. (Ernst Flaschberger, OeAV Section Villach)
Natural and cultural heritage
The Tamar valley (tamar means Alpine stable) cuts deep into the Julian Alps and ends in a natural amphitheatre below Jalovec. Jalovec (2,645 m) viewed from any direction looks like a crystal, for which it has been dubbed the "Matterhorn" of the Slovene Alps. It consists of layered plates of Triassic limestone and dolomite. The characteristic outline of this mountain, as seen from Tamar, is stylised on the emblem of the Alpine Association of Slovenia. Tamar gives way to Planica, a 7 km-long glacial valley with thick deposits of moraine and scree. The valley is renowned for the biggest ski jumps in the world and the record-breaking jumps achieved here. The first person to jump further than 100 m was Austrian Sepp Bradl in 1936, and the first to jump on the 190-m ski flying hill (know as The Giant) further than 200 m was Finn Toni Nieminen. Today, 230-m jumps have become quite common. Planica also host annual FIS competitions for the world cup, and there have been four FIS world championships held here since 1972. The Sava Dolinka River originates as the Nadiža just above the hut in Tamar. After a short and picturesque journey, it disappears into the moraine and continues as a subterranean stream collecting the waters from surrounding landscape ridges. The river re-emerges at Zelenci, an 800 m-long and 200 m-wide stretch of swamp and marsh at the beginning of the valley. Zelenci was named after the small, emerald-green lake created after the last Ice Age. The lake is home to rare and endangered plant and animal species, and was therefore proclaimed a nature reserve in 1992. The paths are furnished with information panels and a viewing gallery and tower. The trail continues and crosses the Upper Sava valley, which runs along the geological border between the Julian Alps and the Karawanken, and follows the road across Korensko sedlo pass (1,073 m). The road was proclaimed a "primary trade route" by the Emperor in 1729 and still provides a link between people on both sides of the Karawanken mountain range. Sources:Gregori, J. (1994). Zelenci: naravni rezervat = nature reserve = Naturreservat. Ljubljana.http://www.planica.info/ (Mimi Urbanc)
Head over the Wurzen pass to reach Austria. The Ofen group includes the lush, wooded mountain forms between the Gailitz river in the west and the Wurzen pass in the east. From the Thörl-Maglern area, people talk of the Carnic ridge, while to the east they talk of the Karawanken. None of the summits reaches the natural upper timberline. However, thanks to the earlier pasture farming and the development as a ski area, the Ofen (today the term Dreiländereck has been widely adopted) and Hahnenwipfel summits are nevertheless wonderful vantage points. The view to the south into the wild world of the Mangart group in the Julian Alps is particularly impressive. The Ofen peak (Peč, Monte Forno) is where the borders between Austria, Italy and Slovenia were drawn after 1918. That is why people here talk of a "Dreiländereck" (three country corner). Access to the group is offered from the north by a chair lift and from the south, from Val Romana valley, by a wide uphill military road (Madonna delle Neve). The community area of Arnoldstein, to which the little village of Maglern belongs, was already inhabited in ancient times. This is indicated by the old Roman road on the left-hand bank of the Gailitz river, which ran from Aquileia to Virunum. The name "Arnoldstein" is derived from the supposed founder of the monastery castle, Ritter (knight) Arnold. The castle-like monastery grounds were under the patriarchate of Aquileia and the Bishopric of Bamberg. In the park museum in Klagenfurt, an ancient gravestone showing Ritter Arnold and his wife Mathilde can be visited today. (Ernst Flaschberger, OeAV-Sekt. Villach, Christina Schwann )
Other long-distance trails and alternative routes
South alpine long-distance hiking trail 03, KGW Carinthian border trail.
Useful topographic maps
Julijske Alpe, vzhodni del ~ Planinska zveza Slovenije (1 : 50 000)
ÖK 200 ~ Bundesamt für Eich- und Vermessungswesen (1:50.000)
Vodnik po Julijskih Alpah ~ Planinska zveza Slovenije (ISBN 961-6156-08-x)
Vodnik po planinskih postojankah v Sloveniji ~ Planinska zveza Slovenije (ISBN 961-6156-10-1)
Karawanken, Hans M, Tuschar ~ Bergverlag Rudolf Rother München (ISBN 3-7633-1262-5)
Picture gallery
Add your own pictures!
Comments
Favourites, criticisms ? Make your personal comments on this stage. For more general notes please use the comments section of the page Over to the Via Alpinists.
Ingo - 2023-09-30
There is no shop, no bakery and no restaurant in Thörl-Maglern. Only a gas station. To buy food, we hitchhiked to Arnoldstein which is just a few kilometres away - and then back to Thörl-Maglern. Austrian drivers didn´t stop for hitchhikers, but we didn´t have to wait long anyway: Italian drivers are very friendly! There is also a bus connection every now and then. In Arnoldstein, there is a great restaurant (Wallnerwirt), a bakery and different supermarkets. Consider stocking up a lot of food because there is no supermarket or bakery within the next ten days!!!
Vegiwölfe - 2023-09-11
Schöner und günstiger Übernachtungsort in Unterthörl: Gasthaus „Resi“ Frau Jovenik, an der Bundesstrasse, Tel. 0043 42 55 86 69. 70 € das Doppelzimmer
M&M - 2023-09-10
In der ersten Septemberhälfte findet alljährlich die European Bike Week am Faaker See statt. Durch dieses große Harley Treffen ist es in dieser Zeit schwierig eine Übernachtungsmöglichkeit zu finden.
flautix - 2023-08-21
Dass die Wanderer auf der Teerstraße über den offiziellen Grenzübergang am Wurzenpass geleitet werden, scheint noch aus der Zeit vor 2004 (Beitritt Sloweniens zur EU) zu stammen! Da es in Thörl-Maglern offensichtlich keine Übernachtungsmöglichkeit mehr gibt, sind wir vom Dreiländereck noch einmal zurückgelaufen und haben den Dreiländerjet abwärts nach Arnoldstein genommen und uns eine nicht billige, aber sehr gute Übernachtung beim Wallnerwirt (bestes Frühstücksbuffet der ganzen Tour!) gegönnt. Der entsprechend geänderte Track (etwas kürzere Etappe, weniger Abstieg) findet sich hier:
https://www.komoot.de/tour/1270710805?ref=wtd&share_token=aOJxeBkZnFerTvQ2Co491G5on9ls4TQiaJfJD6Gw9wFXFqeGiL
Julien Trieste Monaco - 2022-08-15
To avoid the walk along the road and the formal border crossing, I hiked directly from Ratece to Pec/Monte Forno following Tromeja trail. Nice and shorter option. Then I hiked down to Arnoldstein for resupply. There are 2 trains a day from Arnoldstein to Thörl-Maglern.
Oliver - 2022-07-13
For a more extensive resupply, consider going/hitchhiking to jesenice from which trains run straight to Villach. Villach has several major outdoor retailers as well as all major supermarkets, pharmacies, etc. Trains run from Villach Westbahnhof to Nötsch an der Gail where you can pick up the ascend to feistritzer alm.
Carsten - 2022-01-10
Weekdays only buses from Thoerl to 3km away Arnoldstein (major supermarkets at both ends, hourly trains to Villach, bicycle path runs parallel to road all the way from the end of R15 to Arnoldstein). Arnoldstein is also accessible by direct descent from Dreilaendereck ‘hut.’
Bus continues past Arnoldstein for 15km to scenic and major city Villach. Bus departs Thoerl early morning (latest around 8am), then 12:30 and there are a couple more later in the afternoon. Hermagor-Villach line (timetable is online). Trail passes busstop in Thoerl.
For next major resupply consider an alternative route for R20.
Carsten - 2022-01-10
Water: Creek just before and after Podkoren (needs filtering); rivelets (good water) at 1430m on ascent; rivelets on descent at 1070m quickly followed by sound of creek (needs sidetracking) which one crosses 10min later. River just before Thoerl (invites to a dip). Water at end of R15 c.100m to East on main road (faucet into trough).
Camping: frequent possibilities
Guidebook mentions bakery/supermarket in Podkoren -- did not see on or near route; google maps shows a supermarket 3km away.
R15 includes a formal border crossing into Austria (passport check, Covid test / vaccination check). Maps.me shows possibilities to cut out boring road walk via Podkoren by heading straight to the Dreilaendereck from about 5km into R15. That also avoids a formal border crossing.
mackedr - 2018-10-08
There is no hotel on the Wurzenpass. The restaurant owner told me this. I was travelling W to E, so went to Podkoren, where there is a nice country hotel the Vitranc, phone +386 4 580 95 20. In Thörl-Maglern the police told me there is no hotel, but there is one about 3km towards Arnoldstein and Villach, on the right side of the road. This is closed on Tuesday - the day I was there. The Hotel Wallnerwirt in Arnoldstein, phone +43 4255 2356 is about the only hotel there that is open. It is on the Maglern side of the town. I did go to the Linde, but they only function as a restaurant. If you stay there and are heading West, you could change the route and go from Wurzenpass to the Wallnerwirt, then road walk to Maglern. If you are heading East, you can go up from Wallnerwirt Wurzenpass under the ski lift - but not, of course, on the ski lift! Do note that the sign post in Maglern to Feistritzer gives a time of 7:30. Happy walking.
POPEYE GG - 2018-06-13
20 juin 2017
Etape sans aucune difficulté, sauf la distance (27km) et la chaleur.
Saut de ski d'été à Podkoren, et entrainement aux rollers.
Traversée de la frontière avec l'Autriche: les échanges vont être plus faciles!
Le chemin passe par le Dreiländereck, point commun à la Slovénie, l'Autriche et l'Italie.
Difficulté de trouver un hébergement à Thörl Maglern: le Gasthaus Bar Hallo est fermé, mais il y a l'hôtel Neuwirtshaus (où j'ai dîné), et une Zimmerfrei (chambre d'hôte) le long de la route principale, avec ses sympathiques propriétaires âgés (petit-déjeuner fabuleux).
Pour le ravitaillement (limité!), il faut suivre la route jusqu'à l'Italie toute proche.
Automatic translation
[Google]
June 20, 2017 Stage without any difficulty, except distance (27km) and heat. Summer ski jump in Podkoren, and rollerblading. Crossing the border with Austria: the exchanges will be easier! The path goes through the Dreiländereck, common point to Slovenia, Austria and Italy. Difficulty finding accommodation in Thörl Maglern: the Gasthaus Bar Hallo is closed, but there is the Hotel Neuwirtshaus (where I had dinner), and a Zimmerfrei (bed & breakfast) along the main road, with its Friendly older owners (fabulous breakfast). For refueling (limited!), Follow the road to nearby Italy.
I went to Kransjka gora to get resupplies. There's a nice hiking trail through the forest from Podkoren. Also the Eko Natur Kamp (15,- pppn) near Kransjka Gora is a really nice place to take a day off. I was the only overnight guest in Dom v Tamarju, it's 10,- for members of any kind of mountaineer club.
em - 2015-08-03
19/7/2015
Il Bar Gasthaus Hallo a Thörl-Maglern e` aperto. Ha solo 5 camere quindi e` consigliabile prenotare.
Automatic translation
[Google]
19/07/2015 The Gasthaus Bar Hallo in Thörl-Maglern is open. It has only 5 rooms so it is advisable to book.
Tof - 2014-10-27
Monaco trieste, 07/07/2014
Départ de Kranjska Gora suite à problèmes techniques. A Thorl, la station service propose désormais des ravitaillements satisfaisants de mon point de vue. L'hotel en bordure de route est en vente (fermé). Possibilité de bivouac dans un champ après les dernières maisons sur l'étape du lendemain, avant le début de la montée vers.
Automatic translation
[Google]
Monaco Trieste, 07.07.2014 out of Kranjska Gora due to technical problems. A Thorl, the gas station now offers supplies satisfactory from my point of view. The hotel roadside is for sale (closed). Possibility of camping in a field after the last houses on the next day's stage before the start of the climb to.
Dans le sens Thörl Maglern -Trieste:
La carte au 1/50000 fournie par le site slovène est intéressante mais ne suffit pas car le balisage est plutôt "light". En revanche, la trace pour GPS téléchargeable sur le site de la VA est de très bonne qualité. Elle m'a été très utile.
Automatic translation
[Google]
In the sense Thörl Maglern-Trieste: The card 1/50000 provided by the Slovenian site is interesting but not enough because the markup is rather "light". However, the GPS track downloaded from the website of the VA is very good. She was very helpful.
Elisabeth - 2012-11-30
Ouf ! Le balisage devient correct quand on entre en Autriche.
Attention : il n'y a pas de vrai ravitaillement à Thörl-Maglen (juste un dépannage à la station-service). J'ai dû aller à pied à Arnoldstein, à environ 4 km.
Automatic translation
[Google]
Phew! The markup is correct when you enter Austria. Warning: there is no real-refueling Thörl Maglen (just a troubleshooting service station). I had to walk to Arnoldstein, about 4 km.
Podkoren is a pretty village with some very old houses. There is also some accommodation.
In Thorl you can stay in the roadside hotel 'Hello!' for 27 + bf. Don't let this horrible name put you off, the place is OK. The owner will tell you all about the history of the house, of the time this place was a brizzling border station between the fiendish nations of Austria and Italy on the main trading route. Also have a look at his collection of ancient photographs hanging near the bar. There you see pictures of the brave WWI soldiers, standing in front of this house ready to defeat the enemy for once and for all!
vohi - 2010-08-29
Aktuelle Preise (Aug. 2010) Dom v. Tamarju: Übernachtung 8 Euro, Frühstück 4 Euro
Automatic translation
[Google]
Current prices (Aug. 2010) Dom v. Tamarju: 8 euros night, breakfast 4 euros
|
6h10 |
23.7 km
|
659 m
|
1123 m
Favourites, criticisms ? Make your personal comments on this stage. For more general notes please use the comments section of the page Over to the Via Alpinists.